Tim Gilberg
Ron and I looked at each other as the Mexican landowner cursed us in spanish. He had a cell phone and we figured out that "Policia" mean he was going to call the police. Ron speaks some spanish so he tried to ask if we could park in the area outside the gate. The man didn't seem to go for that. Ron said we should be all right here and I said I didn't want the stress of leaving the van in the area. Who knows what could happen. He could vandalize the van...or he could call the police.

It wasn't worth ruining our trip. We could just leave and go to another spot, so we made a conciliatory hand gesture that we were leaving. He went up the hill and sat on a ledge on what looked to be his property up to the left above the mud ruts and pools of muck portion of the road.

We surveyed the hill again.
It looked much harder to navigate backing up. I had a sinking sensation in my stomach that we would get stuck; it was pretty hairy. I did not think my Triple A Auto Club Towing Service would send a tow truck to the southern tip of Baja.

Ron picked a line through the obstacle course of ruts and muck and as we plowed upward the water splashed on the radiator or engine causing it to steam, but he did make it past the first part.

Strange how it seemed to me a mere 35 minutes ago that I thought going down this hill was no big deal. Ron gunned the minivan up the second incline zigging and zagging our way to safety. I felt a surge of relief. We got out to survey any damage. It looked good with the exception of mud splattered everywhere.

Although I don't speak spanish, I told Ron to let me try and communicate with the man. I am sure he was thinking what morons we were, but we didn't try and force the issue at the bottom of the hill.
I got out, made an open hand gesture and apologized and said, "Stupido, Stupido" and pointed to myself. He didn't smile, but the mood was lightened. We were off to the side of the road, and I made a gesture and pointed to the van as if to say, "Is it all right here"? He nodded.

Relieved, we could now walk through the gate with our boards. Like the US, Mexican landowners cannot block beach access.
There must be a path to allow entry to the beach, but when we were trespassing with a vehicle on private land that is a whole different matter. Once again, we grabbed our boards and made our way through the lush Oasis type trail and made it to the beach. It was not too far past the barbwire gate.

We learned a very simple travel tip - if there are any signs you can't read and a gate with a barbwire fence, do not drive your vehicle into that area.

We were only into several hours of our second day in Mexico. This is going to be quite a trip!

Tim Gilberg Surf Trip
Todos Santos, which is noted as a sleepy artist colony and fishing town, sure makes a lot of noise at night!
It seemed as if every barking dog (The Mexican dogs really know how to party at night), street sweeper, and building construction was going full steam all night long. There was also a continuous stream of semi trucks downshifting as they drove by; all freight travels through Todos Santos.

We ate breakfast in the dining area of the Hotel California. Fresh flour tortillas, eggs and chorizo, along with fresh squeezed orange juice accompanied by the usual swarm of flies. I am known as a quick eater, so the flies didn't get much love from me.

Ron purchased a Baja Surf Guide which notated various surf breaks along with basic directions. Our destination was Las Palmas. We drove back South along Highway 19 for about 18 miles. Ron spotted the turnoff to the dirt road and we swung the minivan onto it. After driving about a mile and a half on the dusty road it sloped down and there were numerous ruts and potholes that looked ugly. Many of them were filled with water so we pulled the Van to a stop to take a look.

We got out.
It looked like an Oasis ahead with lush gigantic palm trees. Everything was green and tropical; quite a contrast to the barren desert landscape a few feet behind us. The reason being that there is a freshwater stream flowing under this section of land, which allows plant life to flourish.

After closer inspection of the water-filled ruts we, of course, decided it would be a bad idea to proceed......just kidding....why on earth would two surfers do something that made sense on only the second day of our trip?
We had a minivan that had about 6 inches of clearance. Ron races Baja motorcycles so I let him do the honors of navigating the minivan down the first set of obstacles.
With clunking, scraping, mud flying and tires spinning he made it through. Hmmmm, that was harder than I thought, and there was another sloping rut-filled mud pit ahead. We decided not to take any more chances and turned around. Sorry, that was also a joke! If you do something stupid maybe another stupid move will make it into a positive.

He drove the minivan expertly through the maze of mud and muck.
We did it! We made it to the bottom. We high-fived and drove about 20 yards where there was a barb wire fence filled with Mexican signs. We got out. It wasn't locked, just tied, so Ron untied the fence and we thought it would allow us to drive to the beach. Unfortunately, trees blocked the path a mere 10 yards ahead.

We pulled the minivan up and started to unload our surfboards when a redfaced, angry Mexican in mud boots started cursing at us in Spanish. Uh, OH, Part Two tomorrow!

Tim Gilberg, After driving along the two lane Mexican Highway 19 with it's spectacular ocean view to our left, we were nearing our first surf destination. There is no feeling that can quite describe what a surfer feels as he or she goes to a spot they have never ridden. There is apprehension that there might not be any waves, also hope and anticipation that the tide and wind will cooperate to provide excellent rides. There is also excitement as to how the waves will flow; and just plain going someplace new is always a kick.



There was a small wooden sign which alerted us to pull off the road. We immediately hit a dirt road pocked with ruts and holes. There was the occasional smooth path, and with the minivan's tires spinning and dust clouds flying behind us we were a mere two miles from the surf break. There was a camping site with probably 30 to 40 rv's scattered along the expansive beach as we pulled up. There were two separate small surf businesses renting surfboards as well.



Ron and I lathered up the sunscreen. The last thing I needed was a sunburn on the first day of a surf trip in which I would average 5-6 hours out in the sun per day. We waxed our boards and sprinted to the beach. The waves were in the fun-size chest to head high faces on the wave.

As I ran and hit the surf gliding on top of my board I was welcomed by 75 degree water, a welcome change from the 57 degree water at Cardiff Reef just yesterday morning.



The wave at Los Cerritos is quite unique. There is a rock point where the waves start to break. You actually sit a few feet from the rock outcroppings. This causes the wave to break. You then actually go left towards more rocks when you take off. The wave then wraps to the right for a super fast fun ride. It is like two waves in one.



We entered the water at about 2 pm, and we wanted to reach the town of Todos Santos by nightfall as we didn't yet have a place to spend the night. After a strenuous 2 hours surfing, I was relaxed and at peace and we headed out for the 20 mile drive to Todos Santos along Mexican Highway 19.



In a strange twist of fate, I was yelled out for going too slow by a speeding Mexican. Now I was going about 60 mph on a two lane highway if you get the picture. I reflected back on how I often curse slow driving Hispanics in San Diego. What goes around comes around I guess; anyway, I found it quite amusing!



We had plans to try and stay at the Hotel California.
Yes, "that" Hotel California in the Eagles' song. We pulled up. It looked awesome! Looking like surfers was to our advantage; in most cases surfers live on dollars a day so I could play the poverty card. Ron and I walked to the front desk.



A woman who looked to be in her mid 50's and reminded me of a high school librarian greeted us.

I told her we were looking for a room with 2 single beds, she said they had one for $100. I stepped back and made a groaning noise. The staff got a kick out of that! She then went on to say there were $100 rooms and $25 rooms meaning, of course that $25 rooms were not as nice. I played stupid, and without skipping a beat I said I would like the $25 room. Everyone laughed and we ended up getting the room for $60.



We had an excellent dinner in the main dining room. It was Spanish style of course. Exhausted from our busy first day, both of us were ready for bed. After showering, I lay down on my hotel bed to be rudely attacked by a mattress with no springs! Uh, oh, my Sealy posturpedic had ruined me, I thought. However, it didn't take long until I was able to doze off and get a decent night's sleep.

Tim I picked up Ron Thursday morning, December 8th, 2005 at his place just north of Cardiff. We placed our surfboards in Travel Bags. Ron came up with the good idea of tying the two boards together with pull straps, which look like seatbelts with a buckle. Surfboards are classified as oversize freight, so this allowed us to pay only $50 per way for both boards. If the weight of the combined boards totaled over 50 lbs, we would have had to pay additional fees. Luckily they were under the limit.


I was filled with excitement after we checked our luggage and boarded the plane. Alaska Airlines had a friendly crew and the plane was in immaculate condition inside and out. It was not a huge jet - more like midsize. I would estimate it held about 130 passengers and it was pretty much at full capacity.

Ron was seated behind me. We both had window seats. I pretty much keep to myself when I fly, and only engage in conversations if someone else initiates them. A young couple in their early 20's were seated next to Ron. They had the look of starving college students if you passed them on the street. I overheard the blonde short-haired girl asking Ron about his plans and he told her we were on a surfing adventure. Now, call me paranoid, but a girl sitting next to her boyfriend normally doesn't start a conversation with a single guy. I am also streetwise. a native born Wisconsinite. The streets do not get much tougher than Butler, Wisconsin.

She went on to tell Ron she had been freeloading off her mother, but somehow things went amiss and now she was working for her father who lived in Cabo San Lucas. Guess what happened next? After Ron told her we were using a rental car she asked if they could hitch a ride into town. He leaned forward and asked me if it would be okay It really put me on the spot. What could I say? I am a very private person. I knew we weren't in any danger, but it was the kind of thing I do not like to do. We picked up our bags with the young couple trailing us like Cocker Spanials. Ron could tell I was not happy!

As we landed in the San Jose, Mexico terminal(It is not a bad as it looks!)

I immediately felt the additional strength of the sun on my face, also the Arizona-like desert smell. A shuttle took us to the rental car site to pick up the minivan As the agent tried a series of maneuvers to get me to take the additional $15/dollar a day insurance fee, I deftly sidesteped and explained my credit card gave coverage. The manager came in for backup to try and close the deal. "Sorry, No Bueno. They could have brought out a trio of dancing girls, I wasn't going to buy the unneeded insurance. It was a Mexican standoff at the rental car counter. As I gave them a steely stare they slowly pushed the rental contract toward me and showed me where to decline the coverage. The Van was white, and in excellent shape. We notated the scratches. There was nothing major, but I didn't want to get dinged for any extra fees. The four of us piled into the Van and proceeded to town. The young couple's stop was about 20 miles from the airport and really wasn't out of our way. As we dropped them off they thanked us. Then we headed around the Baja Peninsula to the Pacific side of Baja.

As we left the city we traveled along a smoothly paved two lane highway. I could picture in my mind that this was what the California coastline looked like driving on Coast Highway 101 in the early 50's. It was a desert landscape dotted with saguaro cactuses but it had a simple beauty and peacefulness. There was an amazing contrast between the emerald green water and the hues and texture of the desert.


There were cautionary road signs along the side of the road warning us to watch out for the longhorn steers. An occasional pack of donkeys wandered aimlessly along the roadside. Most were outfitted with high tech Mexican warning systems tied around their necks; in America we refer to them as cowbells.

Tim Gilberg--Cabo Surf Adventure

Ron Wilson, a friend who surfs at one of my favorite spots, Cardiff Reef,
and I were sitting in the lineup waiting for some waves. While talking about how nice it would be to get some warm water and waves, we decided to put together a last minute surf adventure to the southern tip of Baja, Mexico.





Here is a picture of Me at Cardiff Reef on a small but fun day!



I surf almost every day year round in San Diego, so I feel a little guilty about taking a vacation. Three weeks ago, while surfing in Orange County, I was talking with an older surfer about where he surfed, etc. We first started talking about Hawaii; then he mentioned that there were some great waves and warm water a mere two hour flight from San Diego. He said he flew down to mainland Mexico into Mazatlan and then proceeded to the coast. He said he was able to catch excellent waves in warm water with no crowds. I had never heard of anyone surfing in that area, so I logged on the Internet and did some checking. Sure enough, it looked like a great destination!

If you are bored and want to see if I am out surfing, the owner of Hansens Surf Shop owns a House on the hill overlooking Cardiff Reef, He has installed a Web Cam on the roof of his house, this is also cool because you can actually move the camera angle from your computer. Check to see if I am working or goofing off! click this link
Is Tim Working Cam? Be patient it may take up to a minute for the camera to load, at that point click the control button on the lower right and try to find me in the surf lineup.

This brings me back to my conversation with Ron as we waited for the next set wave to come in at Cardiff Reef The water temperature had dipped down to around 57 degrees.
Even in a full wetsuit it is a chilling experience to enter the water. I told Ron about my conversation with the surfer in Orange County and he said he might be interested in a trip. That really got the ball rolling. The lure of warm water and uncrowded waves was just too much to pass by.

With surf reports on the Internet, you are almost assured that you won't get skunked, which is a universal term for getting no waves on a trip. Because the surf spot is on the mainland Mexico side, it gets the best waves when they come from hurricane activity from South America. This time of year the direction of the waves is from the North to Northwest direction, so it didn't take too much checking to realize we might need to change the plans.

I had been to Cabo San Lucas twice before, surfing the southern tip of Baja, Mexico. I was quite lucky to actually have gotten waves those trips because of the time of year I went.

A swell was developing in Hawaii bringing large waves in a Westerly direction. If you go to a map of Mexico and look at the Baja Peninsula, the Pacific side will take North and Westerly swells. Our new destination was locked in; we were going to surf the Todos Santos area of Baja.


If you notice on the Map San Jose is where the airport is located you can see how we proceeded through cabo and drove along the coast to the Pacific side of the Baja Pennisula. The water temperature was forecast to be in the mid 70's which is warmer than even the best days of summer in San Diego, and on a par with the tropical warm water of Hawaii.

When Ron and I talked again, he said it sounded good! We decided on December 8th, 2005, then checked flights and rental car information. We used Expedia.com and found a flight to San Jose Airport in Mexico for $333/round trip on Alaska Airlines. I had flown into this airport on my two previous trips to Cabo.

We needed a rental car because we needed to drive around the tip of the Baja peninsula to get to our destination of Todos Santos on the Pacific side. The locals also call it West Cape. Expedia had economy cars for as low as $159 for a full week; however Ron Recommended a mini van which was $349/week because it would add a level of security and convenience for our surfboards. It would eliminate having to have the boards held down on the top of the vehicle with soft, portable surf racks. We agreed it was worth the money for the mini van.

A quick note to anyone traveling, check with your credit card company and find out what coverage they offer for rental cars. I was able to confirm coverage along with a special toll free number to call if there is ever a problem. You also need to know which cars are covered along with the terms and conditions.

You see, when you pick up a rental car you have reserved in Mexico, there are sales agents who are very aggressive in stating that if you decline the additional insurance coverage.(which is expensive - an additional $15 per day)
you will have to pay upfront if it is lost or stolen,
which is not true. I politely declined, and after inspecting the
vehicle and notating any scratches, etc, we were ready to go.



Disclaimer: My Mother, who worked in an insurance agency in Chandler, Arizona for several years, heard many horror stories regarding people not taking the Mexican Insurance so to each his own.